On Sunday May 12 we boarded a train heading to Verona. We cruised through the picturesque countryside at speeds exceeding 150 miles per hour. The smooth and quiet ride made the trip effortless. We easily found our apartment, and a doner kebab cafe, and began our week in Verona.
Immediately we were impressed. The city is very walkable and welcoming to visitors. While busy, there is not the crush of people we encountered in Rome and we are very comfortable navigating the streets and sites.
Verona is home to many historic sights, including a Roman arena. It is the third largest and still in use as a concert and theater venue. We visited the purported house of Juliet, and took a picture on the balcony. There seems to be much of that story that is fiction, but it was fun to see the interior of these old buildings.
At this writing, Wednesday, the weather has turned to rain so we are doing some laundry and resting. Thursday we’re off to see Venice. Friday has an amarone wine experience planned.
After two big days in Rome we relaxed in Frascati with naps, writing and a bit of exploring our town.
During the walk we saw parts of the town that seemed very local, off the tourist path. Classic Italian street scenes. Stopped for a local pastry in the shape of a woman with three breasts. As the source of sustenance, two f II r milk and one for wine. A novel shape, but the cookie was not very flavorfful.
We found the best beer so far at a local microbrewery.
Dinner was at the top of the wall and featured front row seating to a beautiful sunset.
On Wednesday and Thursday we day tripped into Rome. Wednesday to see the colosseum and meet some Boise friends for lunch. I know, Right? Thursday was a guided tour of the Vatican.
I wanted it to be so much better.
The train ride the Roma Termini was a breeze. The terminal and finding the Metro meant navigating throngs of people and a massive train, bus and subway station. After getting to the right Metro (subway) line we arrived at the colosseum. Truly an eye popping building and amazing piece of antiquity. But everywhere lines of peol!e, bustling and jostling for their Instagram pics. Which we took as well.
Lunch was fabulous with good company, and we returned to the colosseum to see what we could see. Without advance tickets, it wasn’t much. The rain started and we headed back to Frascati.
We had more knowledge for Thursday, and timed tickets for the Vatican tour. Again, more crowds. The tour was disappointing as we learned that St. Peter’s Basilica was closed that day. The guide swapped in some other sights, but still a third of the complex was off limits. The Sistine Chapel has beautiful! The rest of the artworks were as well, but frankly the crowds and crush of smelly, rude people was a little Off putting.
After a bite we ventured to see Trevi Fountain. Again the piece was stunning, but dwarfed by crowds. We got our pics, then headed back to Frascati.
All grousing aside, it is humbling to be able visit these places that were built thousands of years ago and defined “civilization”. Even as brutal as it was, and perhaps is to see original works by Michaelangelo and the other masters is inspiring. Hearing the cacophony of languages reminds me of how little I know in this world and need to remain open to learning.
